Type XX 3-register

Type XX 3-register

Type XX Introduction

My interest in “Type XX” timepieces is exclusively the 3-register flyback chronographs manufactured by Mathey-Tissot for Breguet, Girard-Perregaux, and also under the Mathey-Tissot brand. I am first releasing work on the Mathey-Tissot Type XX, starting with my serial number project, then building out more sections to discuss case, dial, movement and hands. Following this, Girard-Perregaux and Breguet information will be added to each section.

I have never seen published material from the Girard-Perregaux or Breguet indicating that the pieces were manufactured by Mathey-Tissot, though this is accepted within the community. Similarities are so extreme between the Mathey-Tissot and both the Girard-Perregaux and Breguet that I believe both to be manufactured by Mathey-Tissot until shown otherwise. Girard-Perregaux does not have any information in their records regarding a relationship with Mathey-Tissot [1] and nor does Breguet.

You may read that the Girard-Perregaux is the most rare of these 3-register Type XX, though without primary source material from Mathey-Tissot, this is debatable. To date I have found slightly fewer pieces branded Girard-Perregaux than Mathey-Tissot, though not by an amount that I consider relevant to support the regular claims about the rarity of the Girard-Perregaux (though I fully appreciate that sellers do this in order to push prices higher). Breguets are by far the most common of the three, though command much higher price points (their military pieces for the Centre d’Essais en Vol (CEV) driving this). With relatively few pieces seen for Mathey-Tissot and Girard-Perregaux, we see these prices for these climbing correspondingly higher.

What makes a Type XX?
These 3-register pieces build upon the initial specifications of the Type XX, which were first manufactured for the French Army in 1954, and are believed to include the following characteristics:
– black dial
– Arabic numerals
– luminous hands and indexes
– seconds chapter ring
– screwback case of about 38mm and less than 14mm thick
– mechanical self-winding chronograph movement with a power reserve of 35 hours
– accuracy to within eight seconds per day
– flyback mechanism
two registers: at 3 (to measure 30 minutes) and 9 o’clock
12-hour bi-directional rotating bezel
– evidence of ability to successfully start, stop and reset the chronograph 300 times.

The 3-register evolution of the above specifications additionally included an hour register, and either a 15 or 30 minute register.

Are these watches really Type XX?
For ease of discussion, I am going to refer to the category here as 3-register Type XXs, though the Type XX specification was strictly a 2-register military chronograph [2], not for civilian or 3-register pieces we see later.

The model “Type XX” (and “Type 20” from Breguet) was (and still is) used as a model name for later pieces that do not follow the initial specifications as manufactured starting in 1954. So consider “Type XX” on this site to colloquially refer to the category of timepieces that came in the late 1950s and 1960s, both military and civilian, with 3-registers and steel (as opposed to bakelite) bezels.

Based on dating available from Breguet, it appears this group was manufactured starting in 1959 [1]. No information is available from either Mathey-Tissot or Girard-Perregaux for these pieces, though the hope is that there will be information published by Breguet around the Type 20 (military) and Type XX (civilian) in 2019 or 2020 based on research by Emmanuel Breguet.

Additional reading
There are two websites that I recommend reading to learn more about the history of these pieces:
1. Don Indiano’s website on the history of the Type 20, and
2. The Springbar: Breguet Type 20 Generation 1 Military Issue and Breguet Type 20 Civilian, Generation 1, 2 and 3

Outside of this research
This work does not touch upon the 2-register Type XX as produced by Breguet, Vixa, Auricoste, Dodane, Airain (manufactured by Dodane), the non-existent Boullier, or the 3-register Dodane.

[1] Initial date of manufacture based upon the Breguet Type 20
[2] I have never seen the source document from the French military that specifies the requirements of a “Type XX.” Please let me know if you have a copy or know where I can locate one.
[3] Thanks to Wally Schweizer, Museum Curator at Girard-Perregaux, for information on company and timepiece history.

Type XX Serial Number Project

Below is my attempt to aggregate all of the 3 register “Type XX” watches manufactured from Mathey-Tissot, Girard-Perregaux, and Breguet. Some may balk at the use of “Type XX” to refer to these pieces – please read the Type XX introduction for additional comments.

We see the following case/serial number ranges, though with very limited data – many pieces are posted online without caseback images, and thus no case/serial number information.

  • Mathey-Tissot: 234903-279460, 1452-1463
  • Girard-Perregaux: 262674-263405
  • Breguet: 979-4962

The watch represented on each row in the table is intended to be unique within this table, though given that I do not have the serial numbers for a number, the same watch may appear multiple times as images often appear online without a serial number of some distinct visual cue to differentiate.

If you see any duplicates, errors, have serial numbers to include, or know of other 3-register Type XXs to add, please drop me a note with links, images and/or information.

Caveats:
Description of pieces are generally based upon public images/video. For some detail, particularly movements, we do not have images and have to rely on text descriptions from the individual posting the timepiece. As a result, some movements noted in the table below are inaccurate (Valjoux 22, 72 and 726) though I have left them in the table. More detail available in the Movement section.

As with the rest of this Website, the following table, and data contained therein, is subject to Alpha Hands LLC Terms and Conditions

contact_status Brand Serial issue_number reference post_date post_date_calc URL source poster owner where_posted lot production_year cilivian_or_military initial_sale_date initial_sale_detail Movement movement_stamp import_code registers scale_track case Bevels Caseback Caseback text caseback_outside_added Caseback inside caseback_inside_added possible_franken Logo at 12 brand_lettercase Hour Minute Chrono seconds Running seconds Sub minute Sub hour Sub minute design Sub minute running dial_numeral_lume dial_marks_lume FAB SUISSE crown dial_numerals bezel_numeral_color Bezel triangle bezel Dust/mag cap crystal box_type original_strap bracelet_type_date by_original_owner ask_bought_w_premium ask_bought_currency convert_to_usd price_in_usd status comments1 comments2 other_url other_url2
contact_status Brand Serial issue_number reference post_date post_date_calc URL source poster owner where_posted lot production_year cilivian_or_military initial_sale_date initial_sale_detail Movement movement_stamp import_code registers scale_track case Bevels Caseback Caseback text caseback_outside_added Caseback inside caseback_inside_added possible_franken Logo at 12 brand_lettercase Hour Minute Chrono seconds Running seconds Sub minute Sub hour Sub minute design Sub minute running dial_numeral_lume dial_marks_lume FAB SUISSE crown dial_numerals bezel_numeral_color Bezel triangle bezel Dust/mag cap crystal box_type original_strap bracelet_type_date by_original_owner ask_bought_w_premium ask_bought_currency convert_to_usd price_in_usd status comments1 comments2 other_url other_url2
Mathey-Tissot 234903 12-15-1960 Valjoux 225 Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Yes Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 30 FAB SUISSE Black
Mathey-Tissot 234915 12-15-1960 Valjoux 225 Yes Plain 234915 None Unknown Unknown Yes Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Thick (incorrect) Thin 15 Unknown FAB SUISSE Black
Mathey-Tissot 234925 Unknown Yes Plain 234925 None Unknown Unknown Yes Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown FAB SUISSE Black
Mathey-Tissot 262684 12-15-1960 Valjoux 720 No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Yes Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Yellow
Mathey-Tissot 275438 12-15-1962 Valjoux 720 No Plain No mark or text None SWISS ACIER INOXYDABLE 275438 No Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown FAB SUISSE Black
Mathey-Tissot 275453 Valjoux 720 No Plain No mark or text None Unknown Unknown Yes Syringe Syringe Long tail Thick Propeller Thin 15 Unknown FAB SUISSE Yellow
Mathey-Tissot 275460 Valjoux 222 No Plain No mark or text None SWISS ACIER INOXYDABLE 275460 Yes Syringe Syringe Long tail Thin Short Propeller (incorrect) Thin 15 Unknown FAB SUISSE Black
Mathey-Tissot 249980 Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Yes Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 30 FAB SUISSE Black
Mathey-Tissot 1465 Unknown Yes Plain No mark or text SAFE LANDINGS DAN & SAUL Aug 1963 1465 (???) ACIER INOXYDABLE Yes Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 30 Unknown FAB SUISSE Black
Mathey-Tissot Unknown_20190204 Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Yes Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown FAB SUISSE Black
Mathey-Tissot Unknown Valjoux 72 Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown ACIER INOXYDABLE Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown
Mathey-Tissot Unknown_20180512 Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown No Syringe Syringe Propeller Thin Propeller Thin 30 Unknown FAB SUISSE None
Mathey-Tissot Unknown_20090805a Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown No Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 30 Unknown Yellow Dot (incorrect)
Mathey-Tissot Unknown Valjoux 222 Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Mathey-Tissot STAINLESS STEEL Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown
Mathey-Tissot Unknown_20161219 Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Yes Syringe Syringe Long tail Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown FAB SUISSE Black?
Mathey-Tissot Unknown Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Yes Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown FAB SUISSE None
Mathey-Tissot Unknown 12-16-2019 Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Yes Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown FAB SUISSE None
Mathey-Tissot Unknown Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Yes Syringe Syringe Long tail Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown Unknown None
Mathey-Tissot Unknown Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Yes Syringe Syringe Red (incorrect) Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown Unknown Unknown
Mathey-Tissot Unknown Valjoux 726 noted No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown No Long Syringe Long Syringe Arrowhead Center out diamond Propeller Thin 15 Unknown None Unknown
Mathey-Tissot 1453 12-15-1960 Valjoux 225 No Plain No mark or text None ACIER INOXYDABLE None Yes Long Syringe Long Syringe Arrowhead Center out diamond Propeller Thin 30 30 - CONFIRM FAB SUISSE Unknown
Girard-Perregaux Unknown Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 FAB SUISSE? Yellow
Girard-Perregaux Unknown Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 FAB SUISSE? Yellow
Girard-Perregaux Unknown Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 30 FAB SUISSE Yellow?
Girard-Perregaux 263405 Unknown No Plain 263405 Circular GP stamp SWISS ACIER INOXYDABLE N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 FAB SUISSE Yellow
Girard-Perregaux Unknown_20130328 Valjoux 720 No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 30 Unknown FAB SUISSE None
Girard-Perregaux Unknown_20140430 Valjoux 720 No? Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 30 Unknown FAB SUISSE Yellow
Girard-Perregaux Unknown 12-15-1960 Valjoux 720 No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown FAB SUISSE Yellow
Girard-Perregaux Unknown 12-15-1960 Valjoux 720 No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 30 Unknown FAB SUISSE Yellow?
Girard-Perregaux Unknown_20170725 Valjoux 720 No Unknown Serial number Unknown Unknown Unknown N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 30 Unknown FAB SUISSE Black
Girard-Perregaux Unknown (GP at top of pic) Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 30 Unknown FAB SUISSE Yellow
Girard-Perregaux 275507 Unknown - check reply No Plain 275507 Unknown Unknown N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 30 Unknown FAB SUISSE Yellow
Girard-Perregaux Unknown Valjoux 720 Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown FAB SUISSE Yellow
Girard-Perregaux 262674 Valjoux 720 No Plain 262674 Joe G 298-28-8577 Unknown Unknown N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown FAB SUISSE Yellow
Girard-Perregaux Unknown Valjoux 720 No Unknown Unknown Circular GP stamp SWISS (no ACIER INOXYABLE below) None N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 30 Unknown FAB SUISSE Yellow
Girard-Perregaux Unknown Valjoux 720 No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown N/A Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 30 Unknown FAB SUISSE Yellow
Breguet 1002 Unknown Yes Plain 1002 Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Propeller Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 No Yellow?
Breguet Unknown Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black (repainted?)
Breguet Unknown Unknown
Breguet 3077 Valjoux 720 No Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin Yellow
Breguet 3077 12-15-1970 Valjoux 720
Breguet
Breguet 2988 12-15-1967 No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Dauphine Dauphine Propeller Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Yellow
Breguet 2993 Valjoux 720 No Unknown Unknown Unknown 2993, inside case back further hand-engraved 668PB Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet 4962 12-15-1960 Valjoux 225 Esso J.B. CHAMPION DU MONDE 1959 4962
Breguet 979 Valjoux 225 No Plain 969 ACIER INOXYDABLE Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No No rotating bezel
Breguet
Breguet
Breguet
Breguet
Breguet 12-15-1960 Valjoux 225
Breguet 2999 12-15-2019 Calibre 225 (based on the Valjoux calibre 72/Flyback)
Breguet Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Long oval Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet Unknown Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Long oval Thin Propeller Thin 30 Unknown No None
Breguet 2970 Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Large Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin (extra marks on track) 15 FAT Unknown No Black
Breguet 3012 Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet Unknown Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Dauphine Dauphine Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Dauphine Dauphine Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet 1074 Unknown No? Plain 1024 Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Thin Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet 2977
Breguet 2977 12-15-1965 Valjoux 225 15 refers to "30 minute recording"
Breguet Unknown 12-15-2019 Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Appears to be at 30 No None
Breguet 12-15-2019
Breguet Unknown
Breguet 3xxx Valjoux 225 Unknown Unknown Unknown 3xxx? Unknown 3xxx? Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown
Breguet 2447 12-15-1960 Valjoux 225 Not original? Not original? Not original?
Breguet 4909 12-15-1960 Valjoux 225
Breguet 2978 12-15-1966 Valjoux 225
Breguet Valjoux 225
Breguet 12-15-2019 Valjoux 225
Breguet 2398 12-15-2019 Valjoux 225
Breguet 2993 - can't find this one
Breguet Unknown 12-15-2019 Valjoux 720 No Unknown Unknown Unknown ACIER INOXYDABLE Slight etching Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet 3479 12-15-2019 Unknown
Breguet Unknown_20140715 12-15-2019 Unknown Yes at bottom (unknown top) Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black?
Breguet Unknown Valjoux 225 Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black?
Breguet Unknown Unknown Yes? Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Yellow
Breguet Unknown Unknown
Breguet Unknown Unknown
Breguet Unknown Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Propeller Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet Unknown Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet Unknown Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet Unknown Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Wrong Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown Yes Black
Breguet 29xx? (not sure when added this SN) 12-15-2019 Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet 3175 Valjoux 225 No Unknown Unknown Possible: CEV 11 F615367 Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Wrong Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet 7181 Unknown Unknown Plain BREGUET TYPE 20 FG. 6.57 5101/54 Tons of military service stamps Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown
Breguet Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown
Breguet Unknown Unknown No? Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet unknown_20171007 Unknown No? Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet Unknown Unknown No? Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet Unknown Valjoux 225 Yes (just bottom?) Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Propeller Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No None?
Breguet Unknown Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No None
Breguet Unknown 12-15-2019 Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet Unknown Unknown No Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Yellow
Breguet Unknown Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Yellow
Breguet Unknown Valjoux 225 Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No None
Breguet Unknown Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Propeller Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet Unknown Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Black
Breguet Unknown Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Yellow
Breguet Unknown Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Unknown
Breguet Unknown Unknown Yes Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Unknown Standard Syringe Syringe Arrowhead Thin Propeller Thin 15 Unknown No Unknown

The above table, and data contained therein, is subject to Alpha Hands LLC Terms and Conditions

Type XX Dial

As mentioned, this research is for 3-register watches only. All of these pieces, regardless of brand, have a running seconds at 9 o’clock, an hour register at 6 o’clock (12 hours), and a larger minute register at 3 o’clock. All dials are black with white text and marks.

Mathey-Tissot
The outer minute track consists of non-luminous marks, with short marks that do not extend to the edge of the dial for the minutes, and thicker marks that extend to the dial edge, but no farther toward the center of the dial than the other minute marks.

There are luminous hour numerals with the exception of there being no numerals at 3, 6 and 9, with 2, 4, and (slightly) 10 cut-off by the registers.

“FAB SUISSE” is on all dials at 6 o’clock, with the “SUI” obscured by the thick 6 o’clock mark.

Brand/logo
The Mathey-Tissot features two designs, both in white, for the brand and logo, as applicable, at 12 o’clock:
1. This design features a larger font for ‘Mathey-Tissot’, with the ‘M’ aligning with the left edge of the second “1” in “11” on the dial. The “t” ends at approximately the right edge of the mark for 3 minutes on the minute track.

2. The other design features smaller type for ‘Mathey-Tissot’, with an image of a propeller over a globe just below.

Registers
Running seconds register
Running seconds has marks at each second, with longer marks at each 5 second. There are numerals for 20, 40 and 60, with index marks that are slightly thicker than the other marks.
Marks do not extend all the way to the edge of the register. [c] The “6” is open. [c] Seconds marks extend all the way to edge of the register.

12 hour register
There are two styles of 12-hour register:
a. The 12 hour register has marks for each 30 minutes including shortened marks at each hour, and numerals for each hour up to 12. Marks and numerals extend all the way to the edge of the register. There are no additional index marks on the hour.
The type can have a closed or open “6” and “9”.

b. The other design has index marks only on the half-hour, with only numerals on each hour. This register features a closed “6” and “9”.

Minute register
The larger minute register comes in two styles:
a. 15-minute register “design” and luminous marks at each 3rd mark (would be 3, 6, 9, 12, and 0/15 if running at 15 minutes). I mention this as “design” as there are a number of pieces we see that have the “15-minute register design”, but run at 30 minutes (and there is discussion about this online). I believe that given the relatively high number of pieces we see with 15-minute design but running at 30 minutes, that these are original to the watch (same holds for the other Type XX discussed here).
There are no numerals within the 15-minute register.

b. 30-minute register with numerals 10, 20 and 30.
The marks at minutes 3, 6, and 9 are luminous, and are the longest on the register. Marks at 5, 15, and 25 are next longest in length. All other marks at the same length, though the marks at 10, 20 and 30 are differentiated by being slightly thicker than the others.

We also see one example of a chocolate dial Mathey-Tissot Type XX with a telemetre (Base 1000) track. Given there is just one (we have seen this posted multiple times over years, with the piece relumed and yellow paint added to bezel triangle over time), my spidey sense tingles. This watch features the smaller typeface for branding, with propeller and dial, a 30-second subregister, no marks on the hour within the 12-hour register, and prominently cropped 2, 4, 8, and 10 due to the telemetre track presence. I have not included this on the list of 3-register Type XXs, as I am focused on the standard configuration for these timepieces.

In terms of what combinations we see of type/logo and registers, there are “no-logo” dials on pieces with a 15-minute or 30-minute register design.

Girard-Perregaux
Utilizes the same dial design for outer minute track and luminous numerals as the Mathey-Tissot, with no numerals at 3, 6 and 9. Numerals 2 and 4 cropped by the minute register.

“FAB SUISSE” is on all dials at 6 o’clock, with the “SUI” obscured by the thick 6 o’clock mark in most all cases. There is one instance where we see the “SUISSE” not obscured.

The Girard-Perregaux Type XX comes in two designs, the immediate tell being the style of text used for the brand at 12 o’clock: whether it is all uppercase letters, or a combination of upper and lowercase. Based on extremely limited serial number information, it appears that early productions were upper and lowercase, and the later were all uppercase.

All dials have the same running seconds and 12-hour register design, which matches the second type of design from Mathey-Tissot, above, with marks on the half-hour only, and numerals only for the hours.

Upper and lowercase dial text
The Girard-Perregaux featuring lettering as “Girard-Perregaux” will always have a minute register that has a 15-minute design, same as the Mathey-Tissot 15-minute design, with luminous marks at 0, 3, 6, 9 and 12.

All uppercase dial text
The dials with branding shown as “GIRARD-PERREGAUX” all have minute registers with 30-minute design. Again the design of the register is exactly as we see with Mathey-Tissot 30 minute registers, with luminous marks at 3, 6 and 9, and numerals shown for 10, 20 and 30.

Breguet
To come…

Type XX Movement

All 3-register Type XX pieces feature a flyback movement, but which one depends on the manufacturer and time period. The flyback mechanism was invented by Breitling in 1932 and patented by Longines-Francillon in 1936 ( with patent number 183262).

Mathey-Tissot
I have found clear movement stamping on the plate for only four pieces, two each of Valjoux 225 and 720.

If you search text descriptions of these pieces, including those posted by the owners or auction houses, you will find incorrect references in the text descriptions. Movements attributed to the Mathey-Tissot Type XX include the following Valjoux movements: 22 (no), 222 (nope), 225, 720 and Valjoux 72 (no again). For those flyback lovers, Ranfft also lists 230, 235, 237, and 725 as being flybacks.

Girard-Perregaux
I have never seen the movement firsthand of a 3-register GP Type XX, and the images that I have are not clear enough to see what the stamping indicates (I believe they are the Valjoux 720 based on images, but I can’t say definitively).

All references in posts on the Girard-Perregaux Type XX indicate that the Valjoux 720 was used. This seems reasonable, though I would not be surprised to see examples using the Valjoux 225.

Approximately half of the movements seen show with import code of GXM, indicating they were for the U.S. market.

Breguet
As with the Girard-Perregaux, I have never seen a movement firsthand of a 3-register Breguet Type 20, and in the few images available we see the Valjoux 225 only. Many posts reference the Valjoux 720, which was also likely used.

The Breguet Type 20 has either the Valjoux 225 or Valjoux 720 movement, with either a 15 or 30 minute counter. It seems likely that the Mathey-Tissot and Breguets began production first, with the Girard-Perregaux following in initial production date.

As an aside, I have read some sites claim that the Valjoux 720 was limited to 200 pieces, though given serial number information and the quantity found, this seems unlikely.

My understanding of related Valjoux movements [1]:
– Valjoux 22x: Valjoux 22 does not have a flyback, nor hour register. The Valjoux 222 is a modified 22 with the addition of a flyback function, used in 2-register Type XX timepieces. The Valjoux 225 is a Valjoux 222 with the addition of an hour subregister.
– Valjoux 23x: Valjoux 23 does not have a flyback, nor hour register. Valjoux 231 and 235 both are flyback, again used in 2-register Type XXs. Valjoux 230: 2 register, flyback [2]
– Valjoux 72x: The Valjoux 72 has three registers and no flyback function, whereas the 720 adds the flyback function. The 725 has flyback, introduced in the 1970s, with a higher beat rate . The 725 “minute register is usually 30 minutes, but can be 15 minutes in the 2nd generation Breguet Type 20…”, which interestingly is similar to what we see for the Mathey-Tissot 3-register Type XX.

[1] The original Type 20 military chronographs, Don Indiano
[2] The famous Valjoux column wheel family of chronographs, John Hannover

Type XX Bezel

All three brands utilize 12-hour bi-directional count-up bezels, with numerals in black paint. The “6” and “9” numerals are “open” in style.

Mathey-Tissot
The 12 o’clock triangle appears in both black and yellow, though I believe black to be original to the watch.

Girard-Perregaux
The 12 o’clock triangle appears in both black and yellow, and varying on enough examples (with both colors on both dial styles) that it seems likely that the triangles may have been black or yellow originally.

Breguet
The 12 o’clock triangle is seen far more often in black, though some examples are yellow.

There are two examples known with different bezel types with numerals, and one additional with no numerals:
1. Countdown from 55 to 0. This watch also features a tachymetre dial.
2. Count-up from 0 to 60.
3. No numerals, dots only for each hour, including where at the 12 o’clock position.

I do not believe any of these three to be original.