How often to service your watch
All watches require service, and the length of time between services will depend on how often you use and wear the watch, and the complexity of the watch. Depending on the source, recommendations range from every 3-4 years, up to 10 or more years. Most collectors seem to gravitate to a range of every 7-10 years. And yes, there are people on forums who will post about how their watch hasn’t been serviced in 35 years and keeps great time. More power to them!
If you swim and/or dive with your watch, having it pressure-tested on a far more regular basis, even yearly, is recommended. You don’t want to find out when you watch needs to be serviced based on seeing water inside.
Where to service your watch
We have found watchmakers through a combination of friends, acquaintances, watch forums, and the AWCI. After working with a few, we then start to gravitate to those we would use regularly. But first, it will be a big help to but your expectations in check – it isn’t likely that you can drop your watch off today and pick it up next week. We have had standard services that took anywhere from a month from initial contact to the watchmaker to having it back in our hands, to nearly two years. This will range depending on how busy the watchmaker is (can be months before you even reach the front of the queue), how complex the watch is, and what type of servicing or replacement parts are required.
Whomever you use, make that you and your watchmaker are on the same page with what type or work will be done and what parts will/may be replaced. Then get that in writing. Signed in blood would be ideal, but generally not practical. Otherwise you will wind up with horror stories of what happens to your watch like this one or this one.
Your watches can be made to look brand new, but keep in mind most collectors will want them in as original condition as possible. So if you want to try to keep the value in case of resale, you should think twice before polishing away dings and scratches, replacing the dial (embrace the patina/”tropical”/crazing) or hands, reluming, changing the crystal, swapping a faded or cracked bezel, and tossing away an original bracelet. If you do decide to replace anything, at least hang on to the original parts.
Insure your watch when shipped as necessary (some personal article insurance policies will cover insurance during shipping). Make sure to pack it well – we recommend using a plastic membrane shipping box with surrounding material for additional cushion and protection. We will double-box watches (hey, FedEx-labeled boxes are free!), because we are just that worried about keeping them safe – it makes it more difficult for someone to quickly tear open two boxes to pull something out, and moving to a larger size box (say packing the watch in a small box within a medium box) somewhat obfuscates what is inside. Oh, and if there is an alternate ‘Ship To’ name other than “Ted’s Vintage Rolex Watch Repair Company”, not a bad to use that.
Last, before dropping off or sending for servicing, be sure to take pictures of the watch in as much detail as possible for your records in case any issues arise, such as theft, damage to the watch, or if the watch is lost in transit. And if you don’t have recent pictures of the movement, you may wish to ask for those also.
Options/resources for servicing:
Watch manufacturers
Sending your watch for service from the original manufacturer is one option that may be available, but not necessarily the one that ensures the best service. Just as with other watchmakers, there are horror stories of vintage watches going for service at the manufacturer and coming back with relumed hands, replaced dials, and polished, obliterating the value of the watch to a collector. In addition, you will often find that the original manufacturer will take much longer, and will charge much more, than an independent watchmaker.
However, on occasion you may find that the only source for parts is the original manufacturer. We’ve found this to be the case for a Gallet MultiChron with Excelsior Park 40 movement, which requires a trip to Gallet Watch Service in order to be able to get the original T-end mainspring, which is not otherwise available.
Independent watchmakers
Your watch is so old there isn’t a warranty anymore, so go ahead and service it where you please. If you are having trouble finding a good watchmaker in your area, keep in mind you don’t need to work locally. With relatively few competent watchmakers, you may find someone you wish to use in a different corner of the world. Not a problem – just familiarize yourself with them, confirm that they carry insurance and their safety precautions.
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AHCI)
The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AHCI) provides a listing of watchmakers that are CW21/CMW21 certified (Certified Watchmaker and Certified Master Watchmaker for the 21st Century), as well as individuals without formal training. But keep in mind that anyone can be listed in the AHCI directory simply by paying the yearly fee – there are no tests, backgrounds, or qualifications required (yes you could join today)! Are there non-certified watchmakers that will do good work? Absolutely. Have we used them? Yes. But do your background research before entrusting your watch to someone for the first time, including making sure the watchmaker carries appropriate insurance and takes safety precautions.