Call it what you will…a copy, reissue, rip-off, remake, reinvention, resurrection, fake, reinterpretation, homage, relaunch, or a release inspired “in the style of…”, I was surprised by the release of the Massena LAB Uni-Racer.
Surprised because I didn’t expect Massena LAB, having been denied the Uni-Compax trademark, to release a “copy” (I’ll go with that term) of the Universal Geneve 884100 Uni-Compax “Big Eye” given the comments at Massena’s HSNY lecture and what I understood (incorrectly) to be positioning of the “LAB”. I appreciate the attention to detail in the Uni-Racer – the Massena LAB logo in the center of the acrylic crystal, blued hands, the brushing, all harkening back to the good old days of UG. I love the design of the original Big Eye, but I don’t think one can claim that there is any lab work or creativity here. Different case size, new logo, new crown, new name. This isn’t anything innovative, though it is in line with Massena LAB’s business model.
There has been ample discussion on the boards whether the Massena LAB Uni-Racer should be called “one of [the] favorite new watches of 2020” (of course, that comment is from HODINKEE…which, um, coincidentally is the only retail partner of the watch), or simply is an overpriced rip-off.
Whichever you want to call it, best to listen to how William Massena himself positions the Uni-Racer in OT: The Podcast – William Massena (Massena Lab) reimagining icons, Hodinkee collabs, Rolex OPs. And, just to be clear up front, he is straightforward in saying that “it is not [his] original design”. While he says he is “redoing a watch” and refers to the Uni-Racer as an “homage”, Massena at the same time notes that it was “inspired by” the Uni-Compax, which was a good target “not to reissue, not to do a homage, but to do a collab with myself” given that he felt the original was too small (37mm) and of course for the original, not too expensive. Conflicting marketing messages…probably still working out the GTM kinks.
It probably is useful to put this “homage” (?) in the context of others, perhaps the most relevant being the Gevril Tribeca. Massena characterizes the differences as the quantity of pieces produced (the Gevril made in larger quantities) and “the idea [with the Uni-Racer] is not to copy [Universal Geneve], and not even to do a homage…” Which, I have to confess, I do not understand, as the design outputs relative to the originals seems the same to me. And a copy is, literally, “a thing made to be similar or identical to another.” The main difference between release of the two, I believe, is that the Tribeca was modeled after a watch no longer made from a company (Rolex) still actively producing watches.
Massena was not able to acquire the rights to the “Uni-Compax” name, thus the “Uni-Racer” name. It’s not an original watch, and the $3,500 price tag is considered high by many, with the use of the Sellita 510M called out as one reason (you can read a bit on Sellita v ETA, though limited to SW200 discussion and from number of years ago…this just to highlight movement differences). I don’t know the costs, but Massena called the Uni-Racer an “experiment to see how well I can make a watch. …If I had the resources of a big watch company, I could make it for half the price. And I would.” [1] This watch will appeal to collectors that know the original Big Eye and are fine with a good-looking modern copy they can wear without worry (or that allows them a Big Eye look that is not otherwise affordable), but I expect the Uni-Racer will have difficulty competing more broadly with the options under $5,000 to those with tighter budgets.
I find it incredibly disappointing that the current Universal Geneve, owned by the Hong Kong-based holding company Stelux, decided not to engage with Massena on this piece. Doing so would have lent greater credibility to the watch than a separate brand releasing the watch, which is akin to, say, Dan Henry pieces, which is available at a much more aggressive price point (say $250), or a Steinhart. Related, it is shameful that Stelux isn’t doing anything with their ownership of Universal Geneve other than let it gather dust. Stelux should go all-in with Universal Geneve and re-release pieces from their incredible catalog (see Universal Geneve by Pietro Sala).
But don’t be surprised if you see other remakes from Massena. He is “going to do more in this vein. There will perhaps more Universal inspiration because I love it, but maybe not so literal in concept.” [1] And he is looking more broadly than just Universal Geneva, nothing that if the manufacturer will work with him, Massena will work with them. If they don’t, he will remake pieces regardless. [2]
The Massena LAB Uni-Racer is limited to 200 pieces in each of white (based on the 84100/02) and black (884100/01) dial. Released October 20, 2020, development, took “a bit over 2 years”.
[1] Massena Lab Just Released an Homage to a Cult-Classic Chronograph, Esquire, October 20, 2020
[2] William Massena (Massena Lab) reimagining icons, Hodinkee collabs, Rolex OPs, OT Podcast