The Universal Geneve 881101/01 came with a tachymetre bezel across its full production, graduated from 60 to 500 units. I have not seen any UG Clapton with a different unit scale.
The Tachymetre bezel found on the UG 881101/01
I have seen one example of a Nina with a pulsations bezel. This piece indicates 881101/01 on the caseback. As it is the only Nina seen with a pulsations bezel, it is difficult to say that it is original to the watch. So while still unclear to me if original on the 881101/01, pulsations bezels are commonly found on the Universal Geneve 885105.
The Pulsations bezel seen on a single UG 881101/01
As with the Universal Geneve 885103/02 Nina, with the 881101/01 Clapton we find multiple crown styles across its production.
The early version looks like a “shield”, with pointed bottom of the shield, and U within the shield. This version appears up to a 2.47m serial. We do see a single piece in the 2.55m range, so it is possible that there was a crossover period in 2.55m.
In the second design the “U” stands on its own. This version appears from 2.55m and later.
The crowns commonly found on the Universal Geneve 881101/01
However, I believe this is not correct, and rather the design is a later logo (not the 1960 period shown), and is not original to Claptons. As an example, we see the U-only logo on the early Golden and White Shadows with serial numbers in the 2.6 – 2.9 serial range (examples such as 2.6 and 2.97). We then see the “fat” logo on pieces with serials in the later 3.0-3.5m serial range. I only see one Clapton featuring this “fat” logo.
Of course, we also see replacement crowns with either no logo or alternative designs. These are not original to the 881101/01.
The exterior caseback of the Universal Geneve 881101/01 is flat. Stamping/engraving comes in one of three designs, at the top of the caseback and centered horizontally:
1.
STAINLESS STEEL
SWISS
2.
SWISS
STAINLESS STEEL
3.
No engraving/stamping
Curiously, the text does not seem to be consistent to a range of serial numbers. In many images it can be difficult to see the stamping, due to how shallow it is.
We should expect to see the text, ‘STAINLESS STEEL’ in particular, at the top of the caseback, with the leading S and ending L are near the edge of where the caseback shifts from flat to shifting down.
At the bottom of all Universal Geneve 881101/01 casebacks should appear, horizontally aligned,
881101/01
[serial number]
IF the reference 222102/1 does exist, I would expect it to be consistent with the above, and have orizontally aligned:
222102/1
[serial number]
Serial numbers from 2.47 onwards should appear with the ‘ mark to designate breaks for millions and thousands, such as 2’471’848. Prior to this there was no mark, as in 2437995.
These is a very wide range in stamping/etching appearance for the reference and serial number. Some I believe were likely etched later and are not original to the watch, and perhaps the same for some stamping. The earliest watch in this research (226xxxx) appears with etching that is not consistent with later pieces.
Please excuse the poor photos…will add better ones as I get more examples.
Example stamping on casebacks of Universal Geneve 881101/01
The inside of all casebacks is stamped with, horizontally aligned: the Universal Geneve shield logo (near the top), space through the center of the back, then ‘STAINLESS STEEL’ (in contrast to the ‘ACIER INOXYDABLE’ see on the Nina Rindt), ‘SWISS’, and finally the Huguenin Freres logo.
The Universal Geneve 881101 is powered by the Caliber 281, first produced in 1933/34 by Martel. This is both the first caliber to use pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock (est 1933/34), and the first full calendar chronograph that has four subdials (1942 the first with date, then adding the full calendar and moonphase in Tri-Compax in 1944).
The 281 features specifications including a Breguet hairspring, 17 jewels, running at 18,000 vph (vibrations per hour), and a power reserve of 36 hours. Although some sites note that the movement was produced by Martel for Universal Geneve and Zenith, Universal Geneve has confirmed that they produced the 281 components and movement in house, and in the case of Zenith, some components such as bridge or levers, were modified by Zenith. [1]
Within the Clapton we see a single stamping design on the chronograph bridge:
on the branch for the chronograph/center wheel jewel: UNIVERSAL GENEVE
on the branch for the minute register wheel:
SEVENTEEN
17 JEWELS
UNADJUSTED
and then SWISS just below the screw.
The Caliber 281 found in the Universal Geneve 881101
The only import code seen is HON, indicating U.S. Importer A. Hirsch. Not all pieces with English Day/Month discs have the HON stamp, but all movements I have seen with an HON stamp use English Day/Month discs.
Of the Universal Geneve 881101/01 watches found with straps or bracelets, I have found several possible original straps, and about a dozen with period-correct, if not original, bracelets.
Bracelets
While they are of the correct date, and may be branded as Universal Geneve, none of the bracelets found on Universal Geneve 881101/01 are original to the watch, based on discussion with owners of pieces with bracelets in the Universal Geneve 881101/01 serial number database. The bracelet that gets the most press is the Gay Freres “double-grain beads of rice” bracelet. The other, from JB (Jacoby-Bender), is a “Champion” bracelet made up of smaller “links” throughout.
I have seen only one Universal Geneve brochure showing the 881101/01 on a bracelet, which is a double-grain and presumably Gay Freres. I have not found any other source information (from Universal Geneve via advertisements, marketing material or others) that otherwise shows or references the Universal Geneve 881101/01 delivered on a bracelet, but given it was in at least one brochure, presumably it was an option. If you have any advertisements or other internal material, please contact me.
Bracelets used on the Clapton take UW endlinks and are 19mm. I have seen one with UP endlinks, which were not specific to the watch, but will fit…just not as well as the UW endlinks.
If you are interested in adding a bracelet to your Universal Geneve 881101/01, look for one with an appropriate date stamp of course logo (avoiding the “thick” U logo, which is the logo from a period later than production of the Universal Geneve 881101/01).
Details of bracelets and endlinks found on the Universal Geneve Clapton
Straps
Two of the found Universal Geneve 881101/01 are the original strap, which is black leather, with UNIVERSAL GENEVE text and logo in gold print on the lighter backing. The logo sits in between the text and the lug end of the strap.
The buckle is the “pointed” U, with text ACIER INOX and SWISS and DEPOSE (shorthand for ‘registered design’).
As with bracelets, look for the buckle logo to match the period of the watch.
Original strap and buckle for the Universal Geneve 881101/01
